Melissa Juried Kriebel
Leading dermocosmetics brand often grace the pages of Happi—but some products may not be familiar to everyone. Read on to learn more about this burgeoning beauty category.
According to Allied Market Research, global dermocosmetics sales were $51.10 billion in 2021 and are projected to reach $130.46 billion by 2030. That’s a CAGR of 11.1%. What’s behind these impressive gains? The increase in the standard of living, a rise in disposable income, growing awareness among consumers toward appearance, internet outreach and growth in online shopping are expected to drive the global dermocosmetics market, said the research firm.
Skincare & Haircare Lead Categories
By product category, skincare represented the largest share of dermocosmetics in 2021—holding more than three-fifths of the global market. Skincare is expected to maintain its leadership status during the forecast period. The haircare segment, on the other hand, is expected to post the fastest CAGR of 11.4% during the forecast period, noted Allied Market Research. Watch this space in the next year!
The key players in the global dermocosmetics market, according to the report, include AbbVie, L’Oréal, Beiersdorf, Kanebo Cosmetics Inc., Estée Lauder Companies, Johnson & Johnson, Bausch Health Companies Inc., Galderma, Procter & Gamble, Shiseido Company and ZO Skin Health Inc., according to the report.
Where Can Beauty Shoppers Buy Dermocosmetics?
Based on distribution channel, the pharmacy and retail stores segment account for nearly 75% of the global market. The online segment, however, is expected post a CAGR of 13.5% during the forecast period. Based on end-user, the clinics, medical spas, and salons segment held the dominating market share in 2021, holding nearly three-fifths of the global market, and is expected to maintain its leadership status during the forecast period, found Allied Market Research.
Based on region, Asia-Pacific held the largest market share in 2021, accounting for nearly 40% of global sales. AMR expects Asia-Pacific to maintain its leadership status during the forecast period.
L’Oréal’s Active Cosmetics Division Holds Numerous Innovations
L’Oréal’s Active Cosmetics Division is packed with category-leading dermocosmetics brands such as La Roche-Posay, CeraVe, Vichy, SkinCeuticals and Decléor. Driven by gains in all categories and channels, L’Oréal’s 2021 sales rose 15.3% to $36.8 billion. The company’s active cosmetics sales soared 30.3%.
With health a concern for so many consumers, L’Oréal said its Active Cosmetics division outperformed the overall dermocosmetics market in 2021. The division strengthened an already solid relationship with healthcare professionals and confirmed its leadership in dermocosmetics recommendations. Active cosmetics posted strong growth across all zones, with exceptional performance in North America and North Asia. Offline sales saw a return to strong double-digit growth and online sales were exceptionally buoyant, exceeding one billion euros.
Among brand accomplishments, La Roche-Posay more than doubled its growth rate, thanks to innovations such as Effaclar serum and Lipikar EczemaMed, which are said to be revolutionizing the treatment of eczema. Vichy strengthened its European leadership in anti-aging, particularly in skincare for menopausal women, while accelerating in Latin America and North America. SkinCeuticals continued to gather momentum due, in part, to the success of Silymarin CF. CeraVe saw spectacular growth for the second year running, in both the US and the rest of the world.
A recent launch making Happi headlines is La Roche-Posay’s Toleriane Double Repair Matte Face Moisturizer. The lightweight gel moisturizer is explicitly formulated for those with combination to oily skin, sensitive skin. It is clinically tested to be well tolerated while using acne prescriptions that can cause dry, sensitive skin, according to the brand.
This mattifying gel moisturizer delivers a unique dual action that helps to restore the skin barrier after one hour, and provides all-day hydration without shine, according to La Roche-Posay. It contains Prebiotic Thermal Water, sourced in the town of La Roche-Posay in France; ceramide-3, which plays an essential role to help retain moisture and maintain a healthy skin barrier; niacinamide; vegetable-derived glycerin; silica to absorb a significant amount of oil from skin; and perlite. The latter is a powder derived from volcanic rock that can absorb water or oil and is known to provide a matte finish on skin.
“It is a common misconception by people with oily and acne-prone skin that a moisturizer will make their skin greasier, or that using one may cause more breakouts. By working with dermatologists, we know many patients or consumers using acne medications and treatments can experience dryness and irritation from either prescription or over-the-counter drugs like adapalene, salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide,” said Tyler Steele, vice president, medical and media relations at La Roche-Posay.
“You can think of it like a tiny mineral sponge with pockets that absorb excess oil without causing irritation or dryness the way that mattifying ingredients like alcohol may impact skin.”
CeraVe is another dermocosmetics innovator.
In July 2022, CeraVe added three products to its growing portfolio of skincare solutions: Comforting Eye Makeup Remover, Makeup Removing Cleanser Balm and Skin Renewing Eye Cream.
In-line with all CeraVe products, each product was developed with dermatologists and are formulated with three essential ceramides (1, 3 and 6-II) to restore and maintain the natural protective skin barrier. As a brand dedicated to providing therapeutic skincare for all, CeraVe is continuously innovating and expanding its lineup of efficacious products with a range of uses and benefits to meet users’ ever-evolving skin needs.
The brand’s first cleansing balm is formulated with plant-based jojoba oil to help retain moisture while cleansing, leaving skin feeling nourished and comforted. The unique melting formula effectively dissolves long-wear makeup on the whole face, as well as waterproof mascara, without leaving a greasy residue or drying out skin. It’s non-comedogenic and suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin.
Meanwhile, a bi-phase water and oil makeup remover gently removes dirt and stubborn eye makeup, including long-wear eye makeup and waterproof mascara. It leaves skin feeling clean, comforted and refreshed without any greasy residue left behind, according to CeraVe. Featuring a soothing milky texture, the makeup remover features hyaluronic acid and ceramides, and is ophthalmologist-tested, allergy-tested and alcohol free, making it suitable for contact lens wearers and for all skin types.
Joining the Skin Renewing line, the eye cream contains an anti-aging peptide complex to help reduce the appearance of fine lines and crow’s feet, as well as caffeine to reduce both puffiness and the appearance of dark circles. The lightweight and deeply hydrating formula delivers all-day moisture for younger, healthier looking skin, leaving the undereye area visibly smoothed and brightened.
“As part of our mission in providing therapeutic skincare for all, we are continuously consulting dermatologists to ensure we’re developing products that are meeting the ever-evolving needs that they hear from their patients,” said Jasteena Gill, vice president of marketing at CeraVe. “In working closely with dermatologists in both development and formulation, CeraVe continues to deliver products that are gentle yet effective for all skin types, and we are excited to introduce these three new offerings that will help consumers continue to customize their skincare routines to uniquely address their own skin’s needs.”
A Global Approach to Skin Health
Skin health and wellness, magnified by preventative health concerns, is a growing demand for dermocosmetics, noted Carmen Silva Gallardo, a senior research analyst at Euromonitor International.
“Within the past decade, consumer focus has shifted from the basic concepts of aesthetic beauty to the broader idea of skin health. Wellness, which consumers are increasingly seeking to achieve in their nutritional, physical and lifestyle habits, is helping to generate demand for dermocosmetics,” she said.
According to Silva Gallardo, the latter is designed to promote health and beauty of skin and hair by combining properties of cosmetics products (including but not limited to cleansing, moisturizing, beautifying) and those of dermatological products (treating skin and/or scalp concerns).
“These therapeutic-positioned products are suitable for sensitive skin and claim to offer relief, healing or treatment of specific skin and scalp concerns, such as acne, redness, eczema, hair loss, seborrheic dermatitis, as well as products that can improve health and appearance of skin and scalp,” she explained.
In September 2022, Galderma created a global Sensitive Skincare Faculty. It is intended to help people with sensitive skin live better lives. The faculty focuses on research, innovation and engagement to improve the broad understanding and management of sensitive skin. Comprised of 13 experts from around the world, the group has representation from diverse geographies including China, Brazil, the Philippines, Germany, France, Australia, Italy and the US.
The faculty’s inaugural meeting took place at the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology Congress in Milan. Members also participated in a Galderma-sponsored symposium on sensitive skin insights and management approaches.
“We want people to feel in control of their skin, and this is especially important for those who have skin conditions that are often misunderstood – like sensitive skin. We’re delighted to bring together such an esteemed group of experts from around the world who will collaborate to propose and implement research, innovation and educational projects to advance the science of sensitive skin and bring positive changes to the whole community,” noted Walter Geiger, consumer care global business unit head at Galderma.
In partnership with the Department of Dermatology at the George Washington University School of Medicine and Health Sciences, two grants have been awarded to accelerate the mission of the Sensitive Skincare Faculty. The first will establish a Galderma Sensitive Skin Translational Research Fellowship Program over five years to support medical students interested in expanding their research skill sets into sensitive skin. The second project, the Galderma Skin Research Acceleration Fund, will span two years and look specifically at establishing a standard definition of sensitive skin.
With many Happi Top 50 and Happi Top 30 leading companies—as well as innovating indie contenders—the dermocosmetics marketplace is poised for growth in the next year. Follow Happi.com to learn more on these skinnovations and other new developments in dermocosmetics.